Where to eat
Kayyam.
Typical Iranian food (mainly kebabs, chicken and fish): big servings and well-prepared. There is a15% service charge on top of all the extras which is a bummer. Still, for tea, qalyanand sweets after an outing in the bazaar, it’s hard to beat. About 200m south of the Khayyam Metro station and opposite the Imamzadeh Seyyed Nasreddin Mosque (look out for the dome), this oasis amid the chaos of the bazaar, is beautifully decorated. Originally part of the mosque, the 300-year-old building was separated when Khayyam St intervened. It was restored in 2002
Monsoon
This is not the most expensive restaurant in Teheran; the prices are reasonable. It is perhaps the closest thing to a “hip” restaurant that Tehran has to offer, especially among the Asian restaurants in the city. The atmosphere and decor are trendy as well. And the food is excellent.
This his is where all the young and beautiful Tehranis hang out!
Monsoon is in Ghandi Shopping Centre on Ghandi Avenue. In reality this is a tiny, chi chi shopping centre and the taxi drivers don’t know about it. Monsoon is exclusively tucked away on the ground floor in the rear right corner as you enter – no signage, name, nothing. You can tell where it is by the queue emanating from the door…
It is a far from average culinary experience. I would rate the food as superb. And when you consider the availabilty of non-Iranian haute cuisine in Tehran, it is outstanding. It is certainly the best Thai food.
The restaurant is beautiful inside – subtle, hip and the atmosphere is buzzing. Try Teryaki Salmon with organic brown vegetable rice, or coconut marinated trout, or chicken satay salad.
The staff are extremely amiable and not in the least snobbish, which is relatively unusual in top-end Tehrani establishments.
Booking is strongly advised – or wait 3 hours for a table. Well worth it, nevertheless.


